Catch of the Day

My intention of getting as far south and east as possible in our trip to Iceland inevitably meant an early start was needed on our last full day in Iceland to travel the 300 miles back towards where we'd arrived. One of the advantages however of Icelandic mid summer is that there was no time pressure on the journey - it wasn't going to get dark - and we had pre-booked a hotel near the airport in readiness for an early morning departure.

Our first stop on the journey back was at Jokulsarlon (again) for a final look at the icebergs. In each different light the ice had taken on different hues - today blues were more prominent. Walking away from the lagoon, passing a great skua and several eider ducks we arrived at the black sand beach. The shore was littered with shards of ice and the early morning cloud created a natural filter as if we were viewing the world in monochrome. 

Tearing ourselves away we carried on driving for about an hour, passing glacier after glacier, until an unplanned detour down a couple of miles of gravel road took us to Svínafellsjökull. This is an outlet glacier of the Vatnajökull icecap and provided us with the chance to get really close to the glacier edge. From a small car park we found a rocky path that hugged the side of the glacier and climbed above the ice. A guided glacier walk was taking place below but the people were just tiny specks when seen against a backdrop of against the layers of ice and deep crevasses.

Svínafellsjökull

The halfway stop our return journey was the tiny town of Vik. We'd bypassed here on our outbound travels but planned to break our journey by stopping on the return leg. Another unplanned detour delayed our progress. In the middle of a vast plain, we saw hundreds of stone cairns dotted around a small hillock. An information board revealed that a farm known as Laufskalar had been destroyed in an eruption of Katla (another Icelandic volcano) in 954 AD and this created a lava mound that has since been named Laufskalavarda. The story goes that travellers who pass this spot add a stone to a cairn for good luck, which, over centuries, has evolved into hundreds and hundred of cairns. How much of this is myth and how much real history is unclear. Icelanders do have a fondness for myths and legends - even now about half of all Icelandic people believe in elves (Huldufólk) - and not in a story book way but as real inhabitants of the landscape. What is certain is that Laufskalavarda makes for a surreal and other worldly landscape. 

Laufskalavarda

Vik finally hove into view, its three basalt rock stacks (Reynisdrangar) showing as silhouettes on the skyline. The church sits above the small fishing town, perched on a small hilltop, and is apparently the only place that would be safe in the event of a glacial flood following a volcanic eruption. Mist swirled around the black sand beach and above the cliff tops. A statue set back from the beach, a single person looking out to sea, all combined to create a moody atmosphere, almost like a setting for an Ingmar Bergman film. Incidentally the statue has a twin in Hull - a symbol of friendship between Iceland and the UK following the cod wars of the 1970's.

Reynisdrangar

The church at Vik

Vik black sand beach

After Vik we had at least 3 more hours of driving to complete but time to make one additional significant detour. On the N1 road a few miles past Vik was a signpost to Dyrhólaey. A short drive led to the end of the road - promontory overlooking the Atlantic. Once parked we set off to explore braving a colony of Arctic terns. These birds are migratory, ground nesting, fiercely territorial and not endowed with masses of intelligence. You've seen Hitchcock's "The Birds"? Well we performed our own reenactment, using a walking pole as a decoy to avoid getting attacked. The thing with Arctic terns is they attack even when you are nowhere near their nest site. We survived! Once past the tern colony we could relax and take in the views of more black sand, cliffs and rock arches.

The cliffs and beach at Dyrhólaey

The main attraction at Dyrhólaey wasn't the views - as good as these were - but the chance to see puffins. Walking to another cliff we got our first glimpse of these comical looking birds who were nesting in burrows on the cliff tops. We watched as every so often a puffin would fly out to sea or return to land - and although ungainly looking birds on land they are remarkably fast and agile in flight. Before too long our patience was rewarded as one landed only a few meters away giving us a close up view. This one returned from a fishing expedition and decided to display the 'catch of the day'.

We stayed and watched puffins for quite a while until it was time to return to the car and complete the last stage of our journey, pausing this time only to refuel and take a few more photos of Icelandic ponies that were galloping around a field.

Finally arriving at our airport hotel we packed our bags for an early morning flight and ventured out in search of food. An unprepossessing looking restaurant housed in what looked like a light industrial unit on a drab housing estate turned out be be a bizarrely good find. Popular with locals - I think we were the only tourists - it served excellent pizza and lamb steaks. 

So ended out time in Iceland. From the hipster vibe and contemporary art and architecture of Reykjavik to hot water pools and ice cold glaciers, thundering waterfalls and silent, lupin covered plains we'd seen so many contrasting places. The landscape was of course the star attraction, empty of people, ever changing, rugged, largely untamed and unpredictable it had in turn left us beguiled, awestruck and stunned into silence.  We had only seen a small part of Iceland - and its possible a return trip will be needed to sample some more of its delights!

Waterfalls and Glaciers

We left our cabin on a grey but thankfully dry morning to head south and east along the southern half of Iceland's 'Ring Road' - the N1. The first 30 minutes of driving took us through Selfoss, a small nondescript town, and across a coastal plain. Its fair to say the scenery was dull, but things picked up after we arrived at Seljalandsfoss. A very short drive off the main road, set in a green, buttercup filled meadow, Seljalandsfoss is an impressive and accessible waterfall that drops dramatically into a pool leaving a small cave behind. I thought it unwise to walk behind - as people emerged looking very wet - and water and DSLR cameras don't tend to mix well together! We did walk in front taking in the view, conversation inhibited by the deafening roar of water plunging 60 meters over the cliff face.

Mrs B. preparing for her morning shower...

Seljalandfoss

A short walk along the valley led to a smaller and less accessible waterfall with an unpronounceable name to non Icelandic speakers, Gljúfrabúi. This is partially hidden from sight- it teases you with views as it is set behind a very narrow, water filled canyon.

Gljúfrabúi

From this point on the scenery became much more dramatic as the road skirted the volcanoes, mountain scenery and glaciers of Southern Iceland. We passed Eyjafjallajokull (another mouthful) farm and visitor centre - this was the place where the above named volcano erupted in 2010 - causing massive disruption to European airspace. Before too long we arrived at the second large waterfall of the day, Skógafoss. 

This is a really popular waterfall as evidenced by the tourist coach parties and vehicles - in the carpark but its also the start of a popular hiking trail with a campsite, so there were plenty of serious hikers around too. Skógafoss drops 60 metres but is roughly 25 metres wide so the speed and volume of water it discharges is astonishing. A track and 527 steps take you from the bottom to the top with multiple places to stop and admire the view or regain breath - it was a steep climb!

Skógafoss from the bottom..

....from halfway up

...and from the top

Once at the top of Skogafoss my natural instinct to explore a bit further led me to a stile and the start of the Skógar–Þórsmörk trail a 25 kilometre hike across the mountains. I persuaded Mrs B to walk a bit further and as the crowds thinned out the landscape opened up to reveal more waterfalls and mountain scenery - black and green but with occasional splashes of alpine type flowers. It was delightful to breath in the clear air and take in the stunning views of wilderness. Not having planned any sort of hike, after a couple of kilometers I reluctantly turned back as the path was slowly climbing and we hadn't set off with any food or water. A sensible retreat seemed prudent! 

Scenery at the start of the Skogar - Porsmork trail.

Returning to the car we mapped out the next stage of the long drive and after a picnic lunch drove on for a good distance before detouring to Reynisfjara near the village of Vik, stopping to look at a typical small Icelandic church on the way.

Widely regarded as the most impressive black sand beach in Iceland, Reynisfjara overlooks basalt sea stacks and on the beach itself is an impressive cave with basalt stacks. As we'd driven east the sun had broken through so our stroll along the beach was taken in sunshine and we were able to see some of the amazing geology that helps shape the Icelandic landscape.

 
As we'd driven further and further eastwards the roads had emptied of traffic but the landscape constantly changed. After the grey and black of the coastal plain, dark and forbidding mountain cliffs, strange rock formations with occasional green meadows we found ourselves on open road amidst a sea of purple. The Nootka lupine was introduced to Iceland (its not native to the country) to help with soil erosion. Like many experiments its now got somewhat out of control and has colonised vast areas.

Rush hour in Iceland

Having travelling about 200 miles we'd still got another 50 or so to go to our hotel but kept getting distracted by the scenery and stopping to take in the views. Good job it wasn't going to get dark anytime soon! What distracted us most were constant views of glaciers and icecaps that seemed to get closer as we drove on. The surprise of the day came after we spotted a small car park which seemed to offer a safe place to stop and get some landscape photos of the distant glaciers. Walking up a stony path we came over a small rise in the ground where a glorious vista open up. We'd arrived at the Jokulsarlon lagoon. 

Jokulsarlon Icebergs

Lots of places that appear stunning in guidebook or internet photos often disappoint in reality. Not so with Jokulsarlon. Shades of blue dominated the colour pallette. The water reflected back late afternoon sunshine as predominantly white and blue icebergs, that had broken away from the glacier tongue, created eddies that swirled around creating patterns and ripples as they made their way out to the Atlantic. All set against a backdrop of white cloud and icecap. We immediately decided to return the following morning for an even closer look. 

Another 40 minutes of driving and we arrived at our modern Scandinavian type hotel, checked in and booked a table for dinner at the earliest time available (8.30pm - a bit late for Mrs B but as we were in the middle of nowhere other dining options were limited!) and found we'd got a room with a view:

After a good night's sleep and a hearty buffet style breakfast we headed back to Jokulsarlon. Ahead of most of the crowds we booked an amphibious vehicle trip that would take us out onto the lagoon so we could get closer to the icebergs. I'd read that Jokulsarlon was only 80 years old and created by the retreating Breiðamerkurjökull glacier part of Vatnajökull, Europe's largest icecap. Icebergs breaking off from the glacier float out to sea, exiting the lagoon and flow along Iceland's shortest river out to the Atlantic. The iceberg journey from glacier to sea can take years and during this time melting and freezing and erosion from the wind creates fantastical sculptures. The bergs are in some cases layered with black and gray ash deposits from ancient volcanic eruptions. The lagoon is also a wildlife haven supporting a small seal population, colonies of arctic terns and great skuas.

Kitted up with life jackets we got into the amphibious boat and were driven into the lagoon. The sheer variety of ice sculptures was breathtaking. We were fortunate to spot a seal 'chilling out' (literally) on an iceberg.

Mrs B with a 1000 year old block of ice.

 

 

The tour ended all too soon, (but not before we'd had the chance to hold and taste some 100 year old ice) and we found ourselves back on dry land. Walking down by the side of the river we spotted another seal, arctic terns hitching a lift on a iceberg and eider ducks, including one sitting on her nest right by our feet. 

When we got to the beach we found it littered with melting icebergs another surreal sight!

Reluctantly tearing ourselves away from Jokulsarlon we headed westwards towards the Skaftafell National Park. We didn't get too far before detouring to look at another glacier; Fjallsjökull. The lagoon, Fjallsjökullsaron, was much smaller, littered with icebergs, but somehow quieter, with an almost cathedral like atmosphere but with a feeling too of intimacy and closeness to the landscape.

Skaftafell is a popular Icelandic hiking destination. The National Park has lots of trails of varying lengths and grades from 'easy' to 'challenging'. We decided on a shortish hike to see another waterfall, Svartifoss, not in itself as impressive in terms of water volume, but cut into a basalt column cliff. The trail started off on the level but soon climbed steadily uphill. Birdsong surrounded us and I spotted a redwing chirping away. After several stops to recover from the exertion and after about a mile and a half of climbing we arrived at the waterfall.
 

Svartifoss

The vertical basalt columns made for a stunning but slightly gloomy backdrop. The trail crossed a river and then climbed uphill over moorland. I saw a ptarmigan having a birdbath and as we started to drop downhill the path forked. Rather than head back to the start of the walk I persuaded Mrs B. to detour to a place named on the marker post as Sel. I had no idea what we would find - and it turned out to be a good hunch to go that way. Tucked into the hillside were some traditional Icelandic farmhouses, now abandoned and preserved as a slice of Icelandic heritage. We wandered around trying to imagine what life must have been like in this isolated spot. It must have been a lonely and demanding life for these Icelandic farmers.

The old farm buildings at Sel

We returned to the start of our walk enjoying panoramic views of the coastal plain before heading back to our hotel. After freshening up we set off in search of somewhere to eat. The nearest 'town' was Hofn and I'd read about an unusual 'diner' called Hafnarbudin near the harbour.We found it easily enough - Hofn isn't big enough to get lost in - and I enjoyed the local speciality. Hofn is a fishing town and its prize catch is langoustine - they have an annual festival to celebrate it. 

Hafnaburdin Diner and Hofn Harbour

In Hafnarbudin, where tourists and locals eat side by side, I ordered 'lobster soup' (actually langoustine) which was served inside a very large hollowed out crusty bread roll - about the size of a melon. The soup was creamy, full of flavour and packed with langoustine. Delicious but very filling. So ended a packed day that have revealed so many different aspects of Iceland. Tired but full of both food and experiences we returned back to our hotel to plan our final day and long return journey to Keflavik airport.

Getting Into Hot Water

After collecting our hire car from central Reykjavik - a Kia Rio with the registration number FYF 04 - which, to my horror, Mrs B. named 'Fifi', I set off towards our first destination in the 'Golden Circle' - so named because it provides an opportunity to see three of Iceland's popular attractions that are linked by a 190 mile circular route. Navigating out of Reykjavik was straight forward and within 20 minutes we were out in open countryside, crossing moorland with hills and mountains surrounding us. It was also a dry day with some sunshine - pleasantly warm - for Iceland.

Our first stop was Þingvellir National Park, site of the "Althing" the Icelandic Parliament, established in 930 by the Viking settlers. The Icelandic Parliament remained there until 1798. Clans gathered annually to make laws and dispense (often harsh) justice. Þingvellir, a UNESCO World Heritage Site is sited in a rift valley where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates meet - and are moving apart. 

Lots of well marked footpaths provided plenty of opportunity to walk and explore. We walked through a rocky canyon (where the continents divide) and make our way down to the pretty little church - which was surprisingly quiet despite the crowds of visitors elsewhere.

The church was locked but Mrs B. couldn't resist peeking through the windows....

Our walk continued passing small streams, crossing bridges and open land where graylag geese and their young goslings nestled in the tussocks of grass and with views of snow capped mountains in the distance. 

We spotted a waterfall, Öxarárfoss, and took the hiking trail to get a closer view. By Icelandic standards Öxarárfoss is a minnow in waterfall terms but it was still impressive and I spent some time taking far too many photographs!

We worked our way back to the car park and ate our picnic lunch before deciding what was needed next after all that scenery was an ice cream. Now Iceland is sparsely populated, so unlike the UK visitor attractions and national parks don't provide an abundance of places to eat and drink. The nearest ice cream place - but one with an excellent reputation - was 27 miles away, with nothing much apart from the odd farm house between where we were and its location at Efstidalur. The scenic drive was however worth it for the changing views of the landscape. The ice cream farm was surprisingly quiet - and the ice cream was as good as expected. The ice cream parlour has been built next to the barn so you can see the source of the cream that's gone into your ice cream before you buy it. We treated ourselves to two scoops and sat outside soaking up the unexpected sunshine whilst making appreciative noises as we took small mouthfuls trying to make it last.

The dairy cattle at Efstidalur

One happy customer

Our next stop was a short drive away at Geysir. This small settlement has given its name to geysers worldwide and although the original Geysir has been inactive for some time its near neighbour Strokkur erupts every 8 - 10 minutes sending plumes of hot water and steam 20 metres or more high. Around Strokkur there were bubbling pools of water, steam venting from the earth and signs telling you the water was between 80 and 100 degrees celcius. A bit too hot for a paddle! If you want to see what is looks like they have Strokkur live web cam that constantly films it - from a safe distance. Strokkur Live Web Cam

After walking around the pools of Geysir, climbing a small hill and watching Strokkur do its stuff several times we decided to find our accommodation for the next couple of nights. We'd booked a cabin through the Airbnb website and the owner had given excellent directions so after another 45 minutes of driving, negotiating barrier access to a private road and driving another half a kilometre we found ourselves in a secluded spot, surrounded by trees - a lovely place that exceeded our expectations.

As we were self catering I cooked some Icelandic lamb - very tasty - and opened a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon bought at the duty free. This was forward planning as alcohol is very expensive in Iceland. 

We woke up reasonably early the next morning to continue our adventures. We drove to the third big attraction in the Golden Circle; Gullfoss. The advantage of getting ahead of the crowds was that when we arrived at Gullfoss there was hardly anyone else around. The car park gives no real hint of what you are about to see. A walkway leads to a viewing area and there are steps down to see the water from the Hvítá river crashing down with phenomenal power. Getting closer the noise was deafening and a constant mist made keeping dry somewhat challenging. Gulfoss falls about 32 metres in two stages from a wide river into a narrow canyon discharging 140 m³/s in the summer months.

A double rainbow created by the mist

There was a hypnotic quality to Gullfoss and we found it hard to tear ourselves away but more water related adventures awaited. Iceland has an abundance of hot water. Almost 90% of domestic hot water comes from geothermal energy and every small town has hot water baths. We opted for something a bit more swish but nowhere near as pricey as the Blue Lagoon - which would have cost c£150 for both of us! The Fontana Spa at Laugarvatn was more reasonably priced and less busy. Before entering a bathing pool it's custom in Iceland to shower naked and then put on your bathing costume. Mrs B. was relieved the changing rooms were not unisex! Once showered and dressed you have a choice of different pools and three steam rooms all at different temperatures, all geothermally heated. The lake is also naturally warm and you can swim in it too. We spent well over an hour luxuriating in the warm water, sweating it out in the steam rooms and looking at the views of the lake. It would have been easy to stay much, much longer but as we were a) getting wrinkly and b) hungry so reluctantly left the pools to shower and get dressed.  

Relaxing at Fontana

 We'd prepared a picnic so headed for an interesting spot, Kerið a crater lake formed by a volcano 3000 years ago with bright blue waters surrounded by dark reds and black volcanic soils. After eating our picnic we walked around the top of the crater getting panoramic views and came across a very tame curlew that seemed completely unphased by our presence.

Kerið

For the last part of the day we drove to a small town, searching in vain for a farmers market that had been recommended as a place to visit by Lonely Planet. What we found instead was a small sleepy village, a tiny supermarket and some locals who seemed unsure why we'd travelled to their out of the way place. This part of Iceland has lots of vegetable growers who take advantage of the geothermal energy are able to grow fruits and vegetables all year round in greenhouses. Seeing greenhouses aplenty but no market we abandoned this plan and headed back towards our cabin and then, unexpectedly arrived at Skálholt. This was one of the most important religious places in Iceland after the Viking settlers converted to Christianity and has been a place of worship for more than 800 years. What's there now is a striking white modern church and a reconstruction of a traditional grass roofed building. Beyond the church are the remains of the original monastic settlement and open views of the landscape.

We returned to our cabin (Iceland were playing in the Euro 2016 tournament) and cooked another meal, finished the wine and prepared ourselves for the next part of of journey, which would take us 250 miles eastwards along Iceland's south coast.